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Placing the I Beams.

This picture shows an I-beam being placed. Beam pockets are formed into the concrete walls at both ends of the house. These pockets are installed by a laser setting to insure accuracy. The beam is cut and delivered to the job site. I provided the measurement.

In the picture I am placing the post closest to the middle. Other posts are placed after beam is resting unsupported by the crane. The posts level the beam into position. I check the entire length of beam for level with jet type string line. Notice the concrete floor is not in yet.

Starting the Deck.

This picture shows the beginnings of the sub floor. The concrete basement floor is now in and the posts will no longer move. Mudsill is attached to the tops of foundation walls and across the I-beams top. I like to get the concrete floor in before framing starts: it helps to speed the building process.

The mudsill is bolted to the foundation every four feet on center. I layout my sub floors to start from the longest, widest side. This expedites the sub floor construction. The first joisting I place is the stairwell. As soon as the deck is done I will set the basement steps.

Dropping in the Septic.

This picture shows the septic system being placed. Previously to having the concrete floor put in all the under floor plumbing rough-in work is done. The septic or sewer will connect to the house through a pipe that goes under the footing.

I always have a qualified person design my septic systems. This design must be submitted to the local government office for planning and permits. A representative of that office will ensure that the plan meets state laws and requirements.

Finally, when the whole system is in place, itís a good idea not to drive heavy equipment over the septic system this can seriously damage your system.

Nailing Down the Flooring.

This picture shows the sub floor further into construction. Notice I did not start on the longest widest side of house to sheet. The layout is accurate and I can start sheeting where it is the most productive. I chose to start right in front of the pile of sheeting.

I chalked a line the length of the house. Then I worked out both directions from the pile to complete one row. Bridging is top nailed from the deck top and the bottom is nailed from the basement. I use the sheeting edge to keep them straight. Construction adhesive is applied to the top of joists to glue the floor in place.

Time for Framing.

This picture shows the general process in which I do framing. I lay out the wall positions on the floor. This ensures correct dimensions.

Framing is very regulated and there will not be much difference from one framer to the next. I do, however, sheet the entire house in 7/16Ē oriented strand board. The roof I sheet in ĹĒ oriented strand board.

Temporary bracing is added to both ensure safety and plumb walls.

Some Things You Just Can't Rush.

I believe that accuracy counts, even in so-called "rough carpentry."

This picture shows me scribing a header to the exact length so it fits tight.

Loose framing causes drywall cracks and unnecessary settling.

Iíll do the work the way you would do it for yourself.
 

Full 24" Overhang Ensures a Dry Interior.

Overhangs provide a useful means to ventilate a roof. I have been using vinyl siding on most overhangs. In the winter good attic ventilation will reduce ice damage to your roof.

Iím sure you have heard of ice dams on a roof and in gutters. I vent the entire length of my overhangs, including the gables too. None of the houses Iíve built have suffered any ice damage.
 

Scaffolding for Safety.

I have been helping with scaffolding since I was a teen. I also worked at speedway scaffolding for a time.

I know how to get scaffolding up right. Safe for you and me is my scaffolding policy. The scaffold I am on in the picture is a walkway to help me set the roof trusses. 

     
     

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03/10/2012 10:33 PM
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