This picture shows an I-beam being placed. Beam pockets are
formed into the concrete walls at both ends of the house.
These pockets are installed by a laser setting to insure
accuracy. The beam is cut and delivered to the job site. I
provided the measurement.
In the picture I am placing the post closest to the middle.
Other posts are placed after beam is resting unsupported by
the crane. The posts level the beam into position. I check
the entire length of beam for level with jet type string
line. Notice the concrete floor is not in yet.
Starting the Deck.
This picture shows the beginnings of the sub floor. The
concrete basement floor is now in and the posts will no
longer move. Mudsill is attached to the tops of foundation
walls and across the I-beams top. I like to get the concrete
floor in before framing starts: it helps to speed the
The mudsill is bolted to the foundation every four feet on
center. I layout my sub floors to start from the longest,
widest side. This expedites the sub floor construction. The
first joisting I place is the stairwell. As soon as the deck
is done I will set the basement steps.
Dropping in the Septic.
This picture shows the septic system being placed.
Previously to having the concrete floor put in all the under
floor plumbing rough-in work is done. The septic or sewer
will connect to the house through a pipe that goes under the
I always have a qualified person design my septic systems.
This design must be submitted to the local government office
for planning and permits. A representative of that office
will ensure that the plan meets state laws and requirements.
Finally, when the whole system is in place, itís a good idea
not to drive heavy equipment over the septic system this can
seriously damage your system.
Nailing Down the Flooring.
This picture shows the sub floor further into construction.
Notice I did not start on the longest widest side of house
to sheet. The layout is accurate and I can start sheeting
where it is the most productive. I chose to start right in
front of the pile of sheeting.
I chalked a line the length of the house. Then I worked out
both directions from the pile to complete one row. Bridging
is top nailed from the deck top and the bottom is nailed
from the basement. I use the sheeting edge to keep them
straight. Construction adhesive is applied to the top of
joists to glue the floor in place.
Time for Framing.
This picture shows the general process in which I do
framing. I lay out the wall positions on the floor. This
ensures correct dimensions.
Framing is very regulated and there will not be much
difference from one framer to the next. I do, however, sheet
the entire house in 7/16Ē oriented strand board. The roof I
sheet in ĹĒ oriented strand board.
Temporary bracing is added to both ensure safety and plumb
Things You Just Can't Rush.
I believe that accuracy counts, even in so-called "rough
This picture shows me
scribing a header to the exact length so it fits tight.
Loose framing causes
drywall cracks and unnecessary settling.
Iíll do the work the way
you would do it for yourself.
Full 24" Overhang Ensures a Dry
Overhangs provide a useful means to ventilate a roof. I have been
using vinyl siding on most overhangs. In the winter good attic
ventilation will reduce ice damage to your roof.
Iím sure you have heard of ice dams
on a roof and in gutters. I vent the entire length of my overhangs,
including the gables too. None of the houses Iíve built have
suffered any ice damage.
Scaffolding for Safety.
I have been helping with scaffolding since I was a teen. I
also worked at speedway scaffolding for a time.
I know how to get
scaffolding up right. Safe for you and me is my scaffolding
policy. The scaffold I am on in the picture is a walkway to
help me set the roof trusses.